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Selecting
PFD Components
This
document gives a general overview of some of the issues that
should be taken into consideration when manufacturing and
selecting garments to dye and is meant only as a guideline.
The
Dye House recommends that all garments be tested prior to
production!
Fabric
Selection:
Garments
of 90-100% cotton provide an excellent substrate for dyeing.
A diverse range of fabrics is successfully dyed in garment
form ranging from lightweight knits to heavy twills. The option
to mix various knitted and woven fabrics in multi-component
garment is a valuable styling tool. Some shade differences
will occur between the different components but they should
be minimal and often can be used as a styling advantage.
Thread:
100%
cotton or core spun cotton/polyester threads are recommended
so that the thread will dye the same shade as the garment.
Mercerized thread will be slightly darker and may be used
for effects on non-mercerized fabric or for same shade on
mercerized fabric.
Facing
/ Interlining:
This
portion of the garment may not show, but some blended interlinings
will pill and mat during garment dyeing. Excessive shrinkage
may cause the waistband and other areas of the garment to
look crumpled.
Zippers:
Non-ferrous
based metal components such as nickel-plated brass zippers
should be used since they are less affected by electrolytes
and give some protection to copper-containing dyestuffs. For
polyester and nylon zippers, colored zippers can be selected.
Pocketing:
All
cotton and cotton/polyester blended fabrics have been used
successfully.
Trim:
By
selecting different fabric construction for the trim, an unlimited
number of styling effects can be developed. Dye-ability of
the trim should always be taken into consideration. Delicate
trims may be damaged during garment dyeing.
Buttons:
Plastic
buttons usually present no problems during dyeing and drying.
In some instances, delicate buttons are sewn on after dyeing
due to breakage problems or for color coordination. Metal
buttons could present the same types of problems as metal
zippers. The combination of different metals in buttons and
snaps can produce an electric current up to 2 volts which
in presence of electrolytes in the dye bath can form an acid
and destroy the dyestuff and even make holes in garments.
Labels:
Polyester
dye resistant labels can be used or labels may be added after
dyeing. Legibility with lighter shades may not be a problem.

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